A Magical Week in San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende is a jewel of a town I had longed to visit for ages. Nestled over 6,000 feet above sea level in the Sierra Madre and Bajio Mountains of central Mexico’s Guanajuato state, this postcard-worthy enclave has attracted artists and retirees alike. Once a bustling stop on the old Silver Trail, San Miguel de Allende (SMA) was the first city in Mexico to gain independence from Spain in 1810. In 2008 it was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
I finally convinced my husband to join me on this adventure, and we recently spent a week immersed in the charm of this colonial-era town. After two flights, we touched down at León Airport, followed by a 1.5-hour drive before sleepily arriving at our boutique hotel in the heart of the city. San Miguel de Allende isn’t the easiest destination to reach (unless you’re flying from Texas, then it’s a quick weekend getaway!), and thankfully, this keeps the throngs of tourists and backpackers at bay. Mexico City is about four hours away by car, but heavy traffic can stretch the journey considerably.
The cobblestone streets of the Centro Histórico are rich with history and charm, studded with 16th century Spanish Colonial Baroque architecture. I was captivated by the homes, all painted in deep earthy tones, with intricately hand-carved doors and unique metal door knockers that opened into hidden inner courtyards.
Dominating the skyline is the 17th century La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a sentinel of pink sandstone. The church’s bells chime every 15 minutes, some even pulled by hand, and as the sun dips below the horizon, the structure glows with a breathtaking apricot hue.
Our days were filled with leisurely strolls along the cobblestone streets, punctuated by indulgent meals, exploration, shopping, peeking into galleries and museums, and more eating. We joined a fascinating food tour that delved into Mexico’s culinary history, revealing intriguing tidbits such as the origin of tacos and the influence on food by Jewish immigrants who arrived in the 1800s.
One of the highlights of our visit was a day of horseback riding. As we meandered through a local canyon, we crossed a river alongside fourth-generation cowboys and their faithful and enthusiastic dogs. The cowboys whistled tunes that echoed through the breathtaking landscape, offering a glimpse into what old Mexico must have been like.
We observed fairytale wedding festivities outside the church, complete with a white horse and carriage whisking the bride and groom away to their happily ever after.
The Dia de los Cascarones (Day of the Shells), held the same weekend as Carnaval, the weekend before Lent, was quite a sight to behold. The streets near the church came alive with vendors selling hollowed eggs filled with colorful confetti and intricately painted, along with vibrant crepe paper flowers, all handmade by local families. In the evening, the festivities included children gleefully chasing one another, breaking the confetti-filled eggshells over their friends’ heads—a joyous local tradition in San Miguel de Allende.
Each evening we found ourselves drawn to the Jardin Allende, the main square, lined with ficus trees and buzzing with activity. Multiple mariachi bands serenaded visitors as families gathered and friends met for lively chats. It was the perfect place to unwind and soak in the local ambiance, a delightful end to each day in this enchanting town.
We experienced the magic of San Miguel de Allende, an irresistible taste of the elixir that seems to bring people back time after time, and know it won’t be long before we journey back for more.
