San Miguel de Allende Travel Guide

San Miguel de Allende, an enchanting colonial-era city nestled among the mountains in the heart of central Mexico, is a treasure trove of history, culture, and art. Located in Guanajuato state, this vibrant city is renowned for its colorful Baroque Spanish architecture and charming cobblestone streets. Its historic center, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, invites visitors to leisurely stroll through its picturesque lanes, explore its myriad galleries and boutiques, and indulge in its diverse culinary offerings. Every doorway in San Miguel de Allende seems to beckon, promising a new discovery.

A sensory feast awaits in San Miguel de Allende. The city’s bustling art scene and artisan markets burst with intricate details and vivid hues, captivating the eyes. The spicy flavors of street tacos, decadent chocolate, and freshly made churros tantalize the taste buds. As you wander through the historic center, the bells of the iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel ring out, adding a melodious backdrop to your exploration. Run your hand across the intricately carved doors and let your imagination wonder what lies within. Earthy scents of the landscape envelop you during a horseback ride along the river through a nearby canyon.

To help you make the most of your visit, we’ve curated a list of favorite places to eat, shop, and stay, as well as some must-do activities. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning to soak in more of its charm, this guide will help you navigate the best of what San Miguel de Allende has to offer.

EAT

Across from the Jardin Allende, Hortus is a fine coffee shop with indoor and outdoor seating. Grab a table on the wide, covered sidewalk and enjoy people watching or meeting locals, while sipping your coffee or nibbling a sandwich. The owner is a friendly guy.

Nip into Ki’bok, a coffee shop with delicious drinks (try the Hemingway) and an upstairs room with an eclectic smattering of tables (I like the small table by the window where you can catch a view) as well as a rooftop.

If you’re in the mood for a cozy little bakery with a nice selection of breads and pastries, try Panio. There are several outlets around town.

Great coffee and delish baked items and Mexican dishes are the order of the day at La Lavande Cafe, located near the artisanal market. Choose from the signature lavender infused coffee or local brews and specialty brands. For breakfast or lunch, order the cazuela, a type of Mexican casserole made from paper-thin potato slices, mushrooms, cheese and chili sauce, topped with roasted tomatoes, egg and bacon. It reminded me of a version of lasagne. It was delicious and I would love to figure out how to replicate it at home.

Atrio is a beautiful rooftop restaurant is directly across the street from the church, a wonderful spot to watch the light on the church transform the hues from fiery orange to pale rose as the sun sets. The ambience is lovely and the food is delicious, an array of Mediterranean and Mexican dishes from pasta to seafood and lots in between. 

A tostada restaurant blew my mind! At Tostévere I inhaled a seared tuna and avocado tostada and my husband took down a Peruvian ceviche tostada for dinner. We loved the balsamic sautéed figs with homemade ice cream for dessert. We enjoyed it so much, we returned another night where I ordered the very same meal. This place is tiny, cozy and popular with expats, so be sure to make a reservation.

The unusual tacos at vegan restaurant Don Taco Tequila were flavorful and well plated. Be sure to try the homemade lemonade, including charcoal lemonade! The dessert is delish too.

El Manantial is a local cantina specializing in seafood and in operation since 1920, off the tourist path and definitely full of locals. Delicious seafood tostadas (I ate a ceviche blanco tostada) and guava panna cotta for dessert. The menu has a wide assortment of tasty dishes. Brush up on your Spanish or make sure to have google translate. It has a fun ambience and I can imagine it is hopping at night.

Reserve the chef’s table, or the tasting menu experience, at Aperi at Dos Casas Hotel. We enjoyed the six course seasonal tasting menu… inventive, locally sourced and beautifully plated, and the service is impeccable.

For an unmissable jicama taco and a sunset drink on a gorgeous rooftop, head to La Azotea. These extraordinary tacos are comprised of a very thin slice of jicama as the “tortilla” and filled with baby shrimp and crispy fried leeks. To die for! The rooftop boasts excellent views and the vibe is cool and loungey.

Another popular rooftop bar and restaurant is Quince. Music and a DJ set the stage for this lovely spot for a drink and dinner. 

Café y Churrería San Agustin is a cafe known for their churros and decadent dips, including cajeta, which is similar to dulce de leche, but made with goat milk. Don’t forget a cup of thick hot chocolate to go with your churros. A popular joint, there is always a line. Interestingly, the owner graced the cover of Playboy and other magazines in her prime, and makes sure customers are well aware of that. Images of her covers grace the walls of the cafe.

Select an assortment of decadent house made chocolates at Chocolates Johfrej C&V. This family-run chocolatier has been making their Abuela’s traditional chocolate recipes since 1920 (in fact, the initials in the company name represent each of her grandchildren).

Street tacos: 

Andy’s Tacos and Tomas’ Tacos. Both carts are open from about 7:30 pm until very late, for those with late night cravings. Pork, beef and chorizo tacos with loads of salsas. My husband, an avid street taco aficionado, found himself in taco heaven night after night. He enjoyed these stand up dining experiences the most of all the places we ate in SMA. Andy’s is located at Insurgentes 35. And you can find Tomas’ cart at Mesones 48, both in the historic center.

Late night: 

El Tupinamba is a Spanish bar where the theme is bullfighting… sort of like a sports bar but with bullfighting on the TV screen instead of a ball game. A flamenco dancing performance is the star attraction Friday and Saturday nights at 9:30 pm. Reserve your spot because it will undoubtedly fill up.

SHOP

The owner of Tao Studio is a Spanish artist and designer from the Basque region of Spain. The shop is full of fabulous furniture, light fixtures, leather bags, jewelry and hats made by the best artisans in Mexico. A really special collection.

For a special souvenir of San Miguel de Allende, head to Galeria Buena Vida on picturesque Calle Aldama and order up a pair of gorgeous made-to-order cowboy boots designed by artist Carrie Cameron. These are made to fit your feet and legs and are truly one-of-a-kind wearable art. My husband and I both ordered a pair and we can attest they are utterly comfortable… no need to break them in!

The lovely Roma Quince in a concept shop in a restored mansion. Here you will find an exquisite range of well-curated home goods and clothing in an earthy, neutral color palette. There is an attached pizzeria with a brick oven.

In a beautifully designed Spanish house from the 18th century, with a lush inner courtyard, Mixta is one of the most fabulous shops in town. There is a wonderful array of jewelry, clothing, accessories and home goods. I love the gorgeously painted old walls.

Casamidy is a furniture design shop located in the same complex as Mixta. Here, contemporary furniture is manufactured with traditional artisanal methods, and you can see the workmanship in action.

The project of Dôce 18 Concept House is for a guest to experience shopping, eating, drinking and sleeping all in one place. The boutique sells a beautiful array of clothing, shoes, accessories, art and home goods. I picked up a pair of well made huaraches.

Stacks of hand woven indigo textiles including huapiles and ponchos from Oaxaca can be found at Los Baúles Remigio. The SMA branch is at Correo 6, near the Jardin Allende.

Renowned interior designer, Laura Kirar, created the beautiful boutique and guest house Mesón Hidalgo. Clothing, jewelry and decor designed by a range of Mexican artists are on display in a very creative, colorful and artsy manner. There are just 3 rooms to stay in, all lovingly decorated by Kirar herself. On site as well is a small showroom of Xinū (a special perfumery using botanicals from Latin America… I love this perfume! We bought a delicious smoky tobacco scent for my husband, which I enjoy using myself).

Suki Palomina is the place to go to get a custom hat made. This luxe atelier gets booked up, so reserve your spot well ahead of time!

Formerly a textile factory, this historic complex was transformed into a maze of art galleries, shops and cafés. Today, Fabrique la Aurora is quite an interesting place to see the work of Mexican artists, antiques and more. It’s definitely worth a visit via a 20 minute walk from town (or hire a driver).

STAY

There are quite a few lovely places to stay in San Miguel de Allende. During our visit we stayed in two boutique hotels and a guesthouse, but La Valise was by far our favorite experience. With just a handful of rooms in a renovated Mexican house, the vibe is relaxed and intimate. The service is very personable and the homemade breakfast is wonderful. Rooms are uniquely decorated. And we loved the location on a pedestrian only street in the heart of the old town, truly near everything. La Valise has locations in Tulum and Mexico City, and the vibe and experience in all three locations are vastly different and marvelous. I stayed in the Mexico City location as well and adored it.

For those looking to stay in an artsy antique house without an attentive 24 hour hotel staff, boutique guesthouse Meson Hidalgo is an interesting, design-centric option. Meson Hidalgo is a concept dreamed up by international interior designer Laura Kirar, who bought the 17th century manor house and thoughtfully restored it. The three charming rooms are full of character and intention. We enjoyed two nights here.

DO

Food Tour

Exploring a destination with your tastebuds is one of the best ways to experience a place and joining a food tour is my favorite way to do it. Local guide, Omar, is a wealth of information. On our tour, throughout the duration of our several food stops with great eats, he shared us the culinary evolution of Mexican food. We learned that German Jews emigrated to Mexico when antisemitism began in the 1880’s. They discovered that cattle were free for the taking, so they rounded them up and started heading north, enlisting Mexicans to help them. During the course of their movement north, they fused the food from their heritage with local ingredients and thus was born carne asada and chili con carne.

We learned many interesting facts and history about food and Mexico from our excellent guide. Along with food tours, Omar Rogel guides hiking tours, all-inclusive yoga retreats, 4-wheel adventures and other activities. If you want to do something interesting, he is well connected and will make it happen! WhatsApp: +52 4151778985

Horseback Riding

Coyote Canyon Adventures offers horse riding trips, along with other adventures. We spent a spectacular day on horses, crossing rivers and traversing trails and climbing to epic views of the grand landscape. Our guides were true cowboys and our main guide was a fearless cowgirl, Yun. We ended the day with a large ranch meal of tortillas, rice and beans and shredded pork, all of it home cooked by the sister of one of the guides.

The company even offers overnight horse riding and camping adventures… sign me up! I imagine old Mexican cowboy tunes around the campfire with the horses tied up for the night and a star-filled sky twinkles above. Perhaps I’m over-romanticizing the experience, but it sounds dreamy to me.

MUSEUMS

The very charming Museo la Esquina celebrates the art of Mexican folk toys and contains winsome displays and exhibits of brightly painted papier mâché art, miniature kitchens complete with food and people made of clay and much more. I found my visit to be a completely delightful experience, deeply connected with Mexican culture.

Once an 18th century mansion owned by the wealthy and influential de Canal family, Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal is shared space for both the Banamex Cultural Center and the National Bank of Mexico. Within the beautiful architectural spaces are excellent exhibits of both historic paintings and relics of Mexico as well as contemporary art exhibits. I was fascinated by the intricate embroidery works on display. And the doors on this grand building are stunning!

WHEN TO GO AND HOW TO GET TO SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

The best time to visit SMA for cooler temperatures and dryer weather is November to March.

Fly into Del Bajio in León/Guanajuato (BJX) or Querataro (QRO) and take the Bajio Go Shuttle. It’s easy peasy and fun to meet and chat with fellow travelers and residents on the 1-1/2 hour journey. Must book in advance.

Read more about our visit to SMA: A Magical Week in San Miguel de Allende